Andalucía: The Golden Age of Spain
Granada, Tour Days 3 & 4
“Dale Limosna, mujer, que no hay en la vida nada como la pena de ser ciego en Granada.”
These words, written by Spanish poet Francisco de Icaza, can be spotted all over the legendary city of Granada: on T-shirts, wall tiles, pottery and posters. The words describe an old gentleman and his wife who are walking down a street in the Zacatín marketplace. They stroll pleasantly along, taking in the sights and sounds of Granada in the early evening, and they come upon a blind beggar. The gentleman, clearly moved, turns to his wife and says, “Give him alms, my wife, for there is no pain in life greater than that of being a blind man in Granada.”
For centuries, Granada has been a mecca for poets, playwrights, philosophers, artists and hopeless romantics. Such is its beauty that the entire city has been declared a national landmark by the Spanish government! There is a dreamlike, mystical quality to Granada, a medieval elegance that seeps into you and slowly seduces. Everywhere you look, you’ll see the reflections of Granada’s glorious past where, for 800 years, Moorish sultans presided over a tiny but rich and powerful mountain kingdom. So powerful, in fact, that Granada became the last bastion of Islamic rule before its cataclysmic fall at the hands of King Ferdinand, Queen Isabel and the Catholic Reconquest in 1492. Still, the majestic Alhambra palace, perched high above the city on the Sabika hill, serves as a testament to the lyrical elegance and enduring influence of Moorish culture in Spain to this day.
Day 3
Upon entering Granada we’ll check into our hotel, eat lunch and dedicate ourselves almost entirely to the exploration of Granada’s, and arguably Spain’s, most revered monument: the Alhambra. The Alhambra is the largest, best preserved, and most beautiful medieval fortress on the European continent: an artistic and architectural wonder which stemmed directly from the greatest Moorish sultans, architects, artists and visionaries. The first wave of Moors who swept into Spain in 711 AD. had been nomadic tribes of the desert, and they looked upon Granada as their oasis. As the Alhambra was being built, water became the dominant theme, and everywhere you look there are still fountains, pools, and man-made water channels that follow you wherever you go. Our local expert will tell the stories behind the many towers and rooms, and discuss the significance of illustrious historical characters. Later in the day, you might visit the sweet smelling tea shops behind the Plaza Nueva to try some Moorish pastry and an herbal tea infusion.
Day 4
Today we focus on the city of Granada. Among our morning’s highlights are stops in the Cathedral and Royal Chapel (where the Catholic Kings Ferdinand and Isabel are buried), the Alcaicería (the old market place), and the Plaza Bib-rambla. We shall leave no stone unturned as we bring you through the labyrinthine streets of the old Arab quarter known as the Albaicín, and duck into private courtyards, hidden lookouts, immaculate gardens and tapas bars well off the beaten path. Before stopping for lunch in an open-air gypsy restaurant, we’ll savor the magnificent view of the Alhambra from the Plaza de San Nicolas. As we recount to you colorful historical anecdotes and legendary tales concerning Christians and Moors, magicians, princesses, soldiers and saints, you may get the sense that a part of you too will be left behind after you leave Granada, joining the millions of souls who came before and looked longingly over such a beautiful city!
Accommodations
Perched on a hilltop just seconds from the Alhambra palace itself, this world famous hotel offers superlative views of both Granada and the Sierra Nevada mountain range. The hotel is a stunning work of art done in the Mudejar style: a mixture of both Christian and Moorish architectural and aesthetic design elements.
